Ghee roast at Astoria Veg

Tamil Nadu takes its breakfast very seriously, and Astoria Veg is a great place to experience the crispy, fermented delights of this cuisine. Begin with a plate of medu vadas: brown on the outside and pillowy soft within. Then move on to ghee roast, a rocket-shaped dosa that’s both flavourful and shatter-crisp. And if you still have place, round things off with some savoury pongal: a khichdi of sorts, with whole black pepper, curry leaves and lots of ghee. The chutneys, podi and sambar that come as accompaniments are all excellent too, as are the idlis, puris and uttapams. Needless to say, filter coffee is a must. Astoria Hotel, Bazaar Road, Kodaikanal (98421 46524). Open daily 7.30am to 9.30pm. Meal for two Rs 200–400.